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Post by BuckSkin on Jun 6, 2016 6:13:29 GMT
I think the proper terminology is "dioptric adjuster"
Two years ago, my wife would brag on how tack-sharp my images were.
Now, my poor old eyes are getting such that I am near blind as a mole up close; I can see the hairs in a squirrels nose at 250-yards, but I can't hardly make out the squirrel at three-feet or closer.
In order to read and do fine work, I have several pairs of Mighty Dollar reading glasses, one buck a pair; the ones I am using are 3.5X; and, on little bitty print I have to aid them with a big old magnifying glass.
Needless to say, whatever I see through the viewfinder is somewhat fuzzy no matter how well it may be in focus; seeing as 99% of my photography is manual focus, the quality of my images is suffering.
(naked eye --- trying with glasses on is even worse) I have the little diopter wheel turned all the way toward + ; and, when pointing the camera at a large snow-white surface, even with the diopter adjusted thus, the little focus indicator thingies still look fuzzy to me.
For what it is worth, my camera is a Canon Rebel T3/1100D
Does anyone know how the ratings of viewfinder diopters compare to the "X" ratings of reading glasses ?
I have found a source for genuine Canon diopters rated +3 (anything more than a +2 is scarcer than hen's teeth)
Considering my description above, will this +3 diopter be about right for me?
All the people that reviewed them seem pretty pleased.
Thanks for reading.
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Post by tourerjim on Jun 6, 2016 19:49:27 GMT
I had a Fuji camera & view finder adjuster broke so doing some google searching found where someone with a dremel tool cut a piece of class from the glasses so dremel in hand I done the same & worked perfect. If you are struggling its another option.
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Post by BuckSkin on Jun 6, 2016 21:37:15 GMT
I had a Fuji camera & view finder adjuster broke so doing some google searching found where someone with a dremel tool cut a piece of class from the glasses so dremel in hand I done the same & worked perfect. If you are struggling its another option. Am I understanding correct, you took a lens from your glasses and cut it to fit in the viewfinder ? That is just brilliant; I like that; I would not have ever thought of that and I consider myself one of the sharper knives in the drawer; I may just sacrifice a pair of these dollar store spectacles and see what I come up with. In the mean time, I found a really good explanation about the viewfinder, the dioptric adjusting wheel, and the various dioptric adjustment lenses. After studying that article, and on the advice of some guy on another site who seemed to know more about optics than the average bear, I went ahead and ordered a +3 dioptric adjustment lens that should be here in a couple weeks. I am looking forward to giving it a try. Thanks for sharing your idea.
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Post by tourerjim on Jun 6, 2016 21:47:30 GMT
yep & since then I have done the same with my fpv goggles, with another spare pair of specs I cut two pieces of glass from each lens & shaped to the fpv goggles & works perfect.
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Post by BuckSkin on Jun 7, 2016 0:33:55 GMT
yep & since then I have done the same with my fpv goggles, with another spare pair of specs I cut two pieces of glass from each lens & shaped to the fpv goggles & works perfect. Pray tell, what are "fpv goggles" ?
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Sue
Junior Forum Member
Learn something new every day
Posts: 132
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Post by Sue on Jun 7, 2016 7:12:04 GMT
I just bought the Canon 80D and fine tuned the diopter. Through the viewfinder I looked at a digital clock across the room and played with the diopter adjustment until it was sharp. The instructions in the manual basically said to do the same thing.
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Post by BuckSkin on Jun 7, 2016 10:15:18 GMT
I just bought the Canon 80D and fine tuned the diopter. Through the viewfinder I looked at a digital clock across the room and played with the diopter adjustment until it was sharp. The instructions in the manual basically said to do the same thing. I like your digital clock idea; I believe that would be a better focusing target than trying to focus as my manual describes on the focus point indicators. Are you doing this with the lens removed or with the lens still on the camera ? My problem is that in-camera adjustment lacks enough adjustment for my vision. Thanks for the digital clock idea.
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Sue
Junior Forum Member
Learn something new every day
Posts: 132
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Post by Sue on Jun 7, 2016 11:12:51 GMT
With the lens on. Maybe with the digital clock you will be able to adjust it better. I agree, the manual is crazy to expect you to do that. Must be some reason. FYI: I use autofocus 99% of the time. It is so good nowadays with the technology. Actually, jpg shooting has become so good I don't use raw that much any more.
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Post by BuckSkin on Jun 7, 2016 15:37:58 GMT
Actually, jpg shooting has become so good I don't use raw that much any more. I must agree; the only time I see a real advantage with RAW is when photographing inside a building where it is nigh impossible to get the colors correct in-camera and I have a better/easier chance to rescue the images from weird color casts. Just last night, I spent hours on a winter snow scene, taking three different exposure RAW images first through Canon DPP where I prepped them for HDR and converted them to 16-bit TIFF; I loaded the three Tiff images into Luminance HDR and saved four different tone-mappings in 8-bit TIFF; I then loaded these four tone-mappings in Elements and strategically stacked the four into a single image which I then did quite a bit of tedious manipulation to before finally achieving a single finished picture. Just for comparison purposes, I also simply edited the -0- exposure jpeg, spending maybe ten minutes in Elements, and then placed them side-by-side for the wife to critique them, without her having any knowledge as to which was which; guess which one she picked --- the quick and easy jpeg.
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Post by tourerjim on Jun 7, 2016 16:28:52 GMT
yep & since then I have done the same with my fpv goggles, with another spare pair of specs I cut two pieces of glass from each lens & shaped to the fpv goggles & works perfect. Pray tell, what are "fpv goggles" ? Fpv means first person view, its wireless goggles that allow you to fly drones with onboard video or fly quad racers, or rc cars where camera can be mounted, my grandson wears the camera on his head with the fpv goggles whilst walking the dogs.
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Post by BuckSkin on Jun 7, 2016 17:43:36 GMT
tourerjim,
Thanks for the fpv definition; in other words, you can see what the camera is seeing, right ?
As for the grandson, if I were to try something like that, I would be apt to step off a cliff or in front of a milk truck.
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Post by tourerjim on Jun 7, 2016 19:44:32 GMT
tourerjim, Thanks for the fpv definition; in other words, you can see what the camera is seeing, right ? As for the grandson, if I were to try something like that, I would be apt to step off a cliff or in front of a milk truck. Correct, it really is an experience to have a vision that a pilot sees & just to add little more excitement you can also have a gps kit fitted to your drone/aeroplane so if you lost your bearings whilst flying you can with flick of a switch on your radio controller the craft will return & land where it took off.
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Post by BuckSkin on Jun 18, 2016 0:49:22 GMT
My +3 Canon dioptric adjustment eyepiece arrived yesterday.
Instead of spending the extra $22 for the "required" rubber eye-cushion that only fits these diopter eyepieces, I used cyanoacrylite gel (super Glue) to attach my Fotodiox big oblong-funnel-shaped eyecup onto the diopter eyepiece.
I had to give that eye-burning super-glue smell the biggest part of the day to dissipate; I made the mistake of poking my eye up against my freshly glued eyecup and I thought those fumes were going to burn my eyeball right out of my head.
I believe this diopter thingie is going to prove to be a good investment.
Before, I had the little adjuster wheel all the way toward (+) and still everything looked fuzzy.
Now, I have the wheel all the way in the opposite direction toward (-); while I don't believe it is ideal for my eyes, it is a whole darn sight better than it was.
I believe a +2.5 would have been ideal --- IF they made them; a +2 might not be hardly enough.
A couple years ago, I could see clear and crisp anywhere from right in front of my nose to three miles out; now, while I can still see a squirrels whiskers 200 yards away, I can't even see the squirrel six feet in front of me.
I am going to sacrifice a pair of my dollar glasses and experiment with your custom lens cutting trick.
Thanks.
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Post by tourerjim on Jun 18, 2016 6:19:35 GMT
Image shows the two pieces of glass I cut out from my old glasses & they are detachable from my fpv goggles so others can experience the view.
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Post by BuckSkin on Jun 18, 2016 18:48:45 GMT
Image shows the two pieces of glass I cut out from my old glasses & they are detachable from my fpv goggles so others can experience the view. I appreciate the picture. That hobby sounds interesting. A local guy is always posting his drone pictures on facebook and they are sure from a perspective that most people will never be able to experience. We reside on a big plateau/ridge that is the dividing point between two major watersheds and two man-made lakes, Green River Lake and Lake Cumberland. (not the more notorious Land Between The Lakes; that region is very low-level and flood prone; whereas, we are on the [supposedly] highest elevation in the state); he is always posting drone pictures of views from those lakes and dams. Interesting stuff; thanks for sharing.
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