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Post by Inspeqtor on Jan 4, 2018 5:12:57 GMT
Both shots look good to me bailey! I would not go any slower than the 1/125th of the second shot. I assume you mean 1/125th. I am using a tripod. At these settings the image is quite sharp to my eyes, at least when viewing the high-res image. I expect during the total eclipse I will have to tweak the exposure as the moon darkens to a deepish red colour. If I need to, I should be able to slow the shutter speed a little more without affecting the sharpness (due to earth's rotation and moon orbiting) before I would need to play with the aperture or ISO. My only concern now is whether I will get a clear night or not!  Look! It says 1/125 does it not? <grin> Yes that was very much a typo on my part. Here is something you may want to try some day... 
You could always ask people you show yours to if they have ever seen 4 moons in their back yard!! |
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Post by Bailey on Jan 4, 2018 5:41:20 GMT
Hi inspeqtor, I have the eclipse phase times for Melbourne and hope to take a series of photos. The long range forecast for Melbourne for 31/1 and 1/2 is 23-28degC and partly cloudy. The maximum eclipse occurs at 12:29am on 1/2. I have already played with my earlier photos in this thread to see how much I can enlarge them for printing. Weather permitting I should be able to get a series of photos to make a nice large composite to print and hang on a wall |
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Post by Peterj on Jan 4, 2018 16:30:04 GMT
In case anyone is interested in how to photograph the moon, there is heaps of information (mostly very similar) on the www. This is a summary of the set up I use. 1. Mount the camera on a sturdy tripod or something solid where the camera is not easily moved. 2. Set exposure settings to something similar to my previous photo in this thread as a starting point. I use similar settings, I set wb to daylight or auto3. Turn on Liveview (view image on the LCD screen) which also has the benefit of locking up the camera's mirror. If you prefer to use the view finder and your camera has the option to lock up the mirror (on Canon it's in custom functions) then I highly recommend using it. Locking up the mirror removes one potential source of camera shake. (also, using liveview on the swivel lcd screen is much better for my neck when the camera is pointed skywards  ) 4. Point the camera at the moon with the lens at the short end (makes it easier to find the moon) and then zoom in to your preferred focal length. 5. Using the zoom button on the camera for the LCD screen, I zoom the LCD screen to maximum to help accurate focusing. 6. I then use back button focus to focus on the moon. The auto focus on my camera works really well. If you have trouble auto-focusing the moon, then your only other option is manual focus. If you prefer to not use BBF, then I would recommend switching your lens to manual focus after auto focusing using the shutter button to lock in the focus. You don't want the camera to refocus every time you half press the shutter button. BBF takes the focusing function off the shutter button. For those folks using a fixed lens camera like my fz300 use wifi to control the camera zoom, focus and shutter release.
7. I then use a cable remote shutter release to take the shot. If you don't have a remote shutter release, then you can use the timer function on your camera. Pressing the shutter button manually could cause some camera-shake (blurring), especially if zoomed in close. 8. Voila!! Hopefully you now have a nice photo of the moon Thanks for the hints bailey |
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Post by Inspeqtor on Jan 4, 2018 16:50:24 GMT
This is odd, I know I replied yesterday to bailey, and I included a photo I took of the moon.... but today it is not here. Or did something happen that it did not take?
EDIT: It must be my old age... now I see my reply.
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Post by Bailey on Jan 4, 2018 20:50:55 GMT
In case anyone is interested in how to photograph the moon, there is heaps of information (mostly very similar) on the www. This is a summary of the set up I use. 1. Mount the camera on a sturdy tripod or something solid where the camera is not easily moved. 2. Set exposure settings to something similar to my previous photo in this thread as a starting point. I use similar settings, I set wb to daylight or auto3. Turn on Liveview (view image on the LCD screen) which also has the benefit of locking up the camera's mirror. If you prefer to use the view finder and your camera has the option to lock up the mirror (on Canon it's in custom functions) then I highly recommend using it. Locking up the mirror removes one potential source of camera shake. (also, using liveview on the swivel lcd screen is much better for my neck when the camera is pointed skywards ) 4. Point the camera at the moon with the lens at the short end (makes it easier to find the moon) and then zoom in to your preferred focal length. 5. Using the zoom button on the camera for the LCD screen, I zoom the LCD screen to maximum to help accurate focusing. 6. I then use back button focus to focus on the moon. The auto focus on my camera works really well. If you have trouble auto-focusing the moon, then your only other option is manual focus. If you prefer to not use BBF, then I would recommend switching your lens to manual focus after auto focusing using the shutter button to lock in the focus. You don't want the camera to refocus every time you half press the shutter button. BBF takes the focusing function off the shutter button. For those folks using a fixed lens camera like my fz300 use wifi to control the camera zoom, focus and shutter release.
7. I then use a cable remote shutter release to take the shot. If you don't have a remote shutter release, then you can use the timer function on your camera. Pressing the shutter button manually could cause some camera-shake (blurring), especially if zoomed in close. 8. Voila!! Hopefully you now have a nice photo of the moon Thanks for the hints bailey No problem Peterj. I hope they help On a side note, fwiw, in future please do not include your comments in other peoples' quotes because visitors might take them as being from the OP of the quote. Or at least make it clear in your posts which parts of the quote are the original quote and which parts are your comments. Your post implies I own a fz300 camera, which I do not. In this case it's not a big deal but if someone mistakenly adds information, especially if it's incorrect or misleading, to another person's quote it could cause problems. So for the sake of clarity, the comments in red (except for the back button focus link) in my quote have been inserted by Perterj and are not in my original post. The 'unedited' set up I use is earlier in this thread. Good luck with your photographing the eclipse |
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Post by Peterj on Jan 5, 2018 16:28:04 GMT
My apologies, I tried to separate my comments from yours, but obviously I failed. FWIW this is the first time on this forum I tried to comment on different parts of another's post. In the future I'll adopt another method
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Post by Bailey on Jan 6, 2018 2:03:34 GMT
Thank you Peterj.
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