|
|
Post by Lillias on Oct 2, 2016 14:24:55 GMT
A friend has sent me 2 photos each with quite significant light glares on them and she is asking if I can do anything with them. I am not expecting anyone to do this for me I'm only looking for advice as to whether or not this can be fixed using PSE and if so can anyone point me in the right direction as to how to go about it. Cloning can only do so much and I don't think that would be the right tool for this in any case. My own inclination (not being a photographer) is that really the parts of the photos behind the glare are blown and not salvageable but I'm ever hopeful that I can be proven wrong. I have provided this photo here from pixabay as an example of the type of thing I'm talking about. The four light glares here are loosely similar to the ones on her photos although smaller. Any help or suggestions would be welcome...  |
|
|
|
Post by fotofrank on Oct 2, 2016 15:02:23 GMT
Hi Lillas, You can duplicate the layer and change the BLEND MODE to Multiply. Then you can duplicate that layer. You can apply a Layer Mask to protect any part of the image from being darkened.  |
|
|
|
Post by Lillias on Oct 2, 2016 19:46:43 GMT
Thank you fotofrank I'll give that a try...
|
|
|
|
Post by Sepiana on Oct 2, 2016 21:14:03 GMT
You can duplicate the layer and change the BLEND MODE to Multiply. Then you can duplicate that layer. You can apply a Layer Mask to protect any part of the image from being darkened. Frank,
Great suggestion! I had never thought of using the Multiply blend mode in this situation. Thanks! Living and Learning!
|
|
|
|
Post by PeteB on Oct 3, 2016 2:51:59 GMT
Here is another possibility. Using Elements+ I opened the image in ACR. Adjusted the highlights and the whites. Also adjusted clarity and reduced vibrance (that removed most of the red). Opened the image in PSE and then I tried a haze removal technique that I found years ago. (From my notes—A simple way to remove haze is to apply a Gradient map adjustment layer in black and white and change the blend mode to 'luminosity’) Then added a Levels adjustment and moved the mid-tones slider to the right — adjusting the light rays. Used the Levels mask to control the effect on the slide, etc. Stamp visible and high pass sharpen. Minor touch up—   |
|
|
|
Post by deprosq on Oct 3, 2016 10:45:12 GMT
You could do something along this quick and simple demo. I used a combination of the output levels slider (with a layer mask) in Levels to darken the highlights and then the burn tool to fine tune the darkening. It's a bit fiddly but I think the edited image below shows it can be done with more time and fine tuning.  |
|
|
|
Post by Lillias on Oct 3, 2016 19:50:53 GMT
Thanks for your contribution PeteB. I don't have Elements+ but I'll study what you did in PSE.
Thank you too deprosq for your suggestions.
This exercise is something which is obviously going to take a bit of time which unfortunately I don't have a lot of right now but at least I have plenty to go on for when I do have the time.
|
|
|
|
Post by Sepiana on Oct 3, 2016 20:13:45 GMT
Thanks for your contribution PeteB. I don't have Elements+ but I'll study what you did in PSE. If you are talking about . . .
Here is another possibility. Using Elements+ I opened the image in ACR. Adjusted the highlights and the whites. Also adjusted clarity and reduced vibrance (that removed most of the red).
. . . you don't need the Elements+ add-on; you can use the Raw Converter which comes with Elements. I am assuming you are working with a non-Raw file. If so,
In Elements 11:
Do File>Open As and select Camera Raw. Your non-Raw file open in the Raw Converter. Once you have made the necessary adjustments, click on the Open Image button to open the file in the Editor.
In Elements 13:
The workflow will basically be the same. However, Adobe made some changes. The command is now . . . File>Open in Camera Raw.
|
|
|
|
Post by Lillias on Oct 3, 2016 21:55:45 GMT
Thank you Sepiana.
|
|
