Nice photo but with foreign object

That appears to be either a fence wire, or similar object that was much closer to the camera lens than the dog; had it been just a bit closer to the camera, it would not even have been visible; notice how the detail of the dog is faintly visible behind the streak.

In the old Elements Village, I posted a picture of a bird that had a very similar ghosting of a small twig right through the middle of the picture, asking for the same advice.

Although the name escapes me, a very talented member made the blurry smudge of the twig disappear as if it had never been there using numerous levels adjustment layers; I tried to replicate his accomplishment with little success.

My wife takes pictures of kids playing ball, shooting through a chain-link fence; the fence is so close to the camera that it is not visible in most of the pictures.

Sorry you weren't able to achieve your goal. Sometimes the photos just can't be fixed by those of us with normal skill levels. As far as paid work, I've never seen anyone offering that service on this forum.

If it makes you feel any better, people who do not dabble in PSE will not be bothered by the wire. It's just those of us who know the process is out there to fix it that focus in on things like that.

That dog must be special, so make certain that any experimenting is performed on duplicates while the original lies safely tucked away in several different drives.

To get you in the ball-park, try this :

With the image loaded in Elements, duplicate the background layer (type CTRL and J), add a levels adjustment layer (click the little white/black circle at the top of the layers stack), load this levels adjustment layer without making any adjustments (with the adjustment layers menu open, just click on levels and then click okay in the box that appears)

At upper-left of window, click Edit and in the drop-down menu click "fill layer"; choose black in the box that appears and click okay; the little white square in the levels layer should turn black --- meaning whatever adjustments you do are going to be hidden from view.

With this blacked out levels layer being the active layer, make your fore-ground color is white and click B to select the brush tool; make certain it is the plain old brush; if not, click B again until the tool becomes the plain old brush.

In the brush picker menu, choose a soft round brush size 300; fine-tune adjust the brush diameter by using the [ and ] keys until the brush diameter matches the width of the streak across the picture.

Using this soft white brush, on the image of the dog, with the levels layer selected as the active layer, drag the brush along the streak.

If you are doing this right, you will see no evidence of you having done anything yet.

Now, make several duplicates of this levels adjustment layer and click the little eyeballs to make them invisible, all except the one just atop the duplicated background layer, and make this lowest levels layer the visible active layer.

Double-click on the little picture of gears that is on the active levels layer and the adjustment box should appear.

For now, leave the "master" option as-is and manipulate the little sliders underneath the histogram while watching what it does to the streak on the image.

When the effect is as close as you can get it, click okay and the box will go away.

Experiment with different layer modes in the menu that drops down when you click on "normal" and play around with the opacity slider.

The reason for making all the duplicate levels layers is so you can fine-tune what is going on, maybe by varying the mode or even the histogram adjustments in more than one levels layer.

You have to make each successive layer visible and active as you go along.

This takes lots of trial and error.

As you get close, you may need to use your soft white brush to gradually widen the white stripe you painted earlier, sort of make it just a bit wider on each successive layer in the stack; this will make your work sort of taper off to nothing.

You can fix whatever mistakes you make with the white by painting over them with black.

You can paint with varying shades of grey to show more or less of the effect.

You can also play with brush opacity and even brush mode.

The hardest thing for people to understand about this white/black painting business is that, although you are painting on the actual image you see, you are not making white or black appear on the actual image, you are revealing or concealing whatever is happening with the adjustment layer that is active.

White reveals; black conceals; grey is in between.

I bet you see an improvement in the first few minutes of following this procedure.

I hope you get some benefit from all this typing.

Thanks for reading.

I just hope that you can make sense of my instructions.

If anything is not clear to you, just ask.

Also, I would appreciate any of our other members to peruse my instructions and make any corrections/clarifications and suggestions as necessary.

If you will look closely at the image, you can plainly see every little detail showing through the offending stripe.

The detail is there; you just have to make it the same color and sharpness as the rest of the image; and, this work needs to be localized to affect only the offending area, hence our white painted stripe on the otherwise black adjustment layer(s).

What you have is a localized contrast issue; it can be fixed.