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Post by Paul Whiting on Mar 18, 2021 19:16:00 GMT
Here I go again! See this earlier post and you'll see my post then. I bragged how easily I obtained that screen shot. BUT now I can't remember how I did that. Now, all I can get is this:
Thoughts anyone?!
Paul
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Post by Paul Whiting on Mar 18, 2021 19:20:28 GMT
PS: I'm not counting the panel in the first screen shot I mention.
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Post by Sepiana on Mar 18, 2021 20:41:59 GMT
Hi Paul,
This may explain the difference you are seeing in the Auto Levels dialog.
First screenshot:
- You were working with an image in the RGB mode.
- You first ran Grant’s Tools - Channel Mixer action (Monochrome, Output Channel - Gray).
- Then you created a Levels adjustment layer (Alt-click on Auto).
Second screenshot:
- You seem to be working with an image in the Grayscale mode.
- You created a Levels adjustment layer (Alt-click on Auto).
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Post by Paul Whiting on Mar 18, 2021 21:20:58 GMT
Hello Sepiana,
Aha... your eagle eye spotted something. Then the question is, should I choose grey or RGB? The final photo is to be displayed in black and white. so I guess I should work in grey. Or is it more complicated than that.
Paul
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Post by Sepiana on Mar 18, 2021 21:52:36 GMT
I would suggest you start with an image in the RGB mode. Then, convert it to B&W. You can use Grant's Tools - Channel Mixer action (as you did earlier) or you can try other techniques such as a Gradient Map, a H/S adjustment layer, etc. If you start with an image in the RGB mode, when you do Levels > Alt-click on Auto, you will get the "full" dialog.
While I waited to hear from you, I tested the above workflow. In every instance, the "full" Auto Levels dialog opened up.
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Post by Paul Whiting on Mar 19, 2021 14:53:01 GMT
Sepiana,
"Great minds think alike." !! I did the same thing! But I never paid attention to it. If you look at the first of the two screenshots I posted, it shows the original file is in RGB. I just tried it again this morning, and it indeed was in RGB. I got a good b&w print from this file, matter of fact a hair too contrasty. Now, however, do I need two techniques? One originating as RGB and I convert it to B & W, (I take the Channel Mixer route myself)and the other technique is to start with a scan of a b/w negative. The second technique I end up with results in a positive that's a bit too flat for me, even though this technique's histogram is full - without tweaking. Do I understand the issue correctly? I got lucky a few weeks ago... a colleague gave me a Spyder5. He upgraded and gave me his older version. I'd like to think this might help - although I haven't installed it yet and don't relish another learning curve |
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Post by Sepiana on Mar 19, 2021 21:27:37 GMT
Now, however, do I need two techniques? One originating as RGB and I convert it to B & W, (I take the Channel Mixer route myself)and the other technique is to start with a scan of a b/w negative. Paul, it all depends on . . . - if you want to include Grant's Tools-Channel Mixer action in your workflow. - if you are starting with an image in the RGB mode or Grayscale mode. - which Auto Levels dialog you want to open.  |
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Post by Paul Whiting on Mar 21, 2021 11:37:54 GMT
Thank you, Sepiana.
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Chris
Established Forum Member
Posts: 490
Open to constructive criticism of photos: Yes
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Post by Chris on Mar 21, 2021 17:25:52 GMT
Paul, I am coming in late in this thread. Just to mention some points that come to mind.
1- Its a good idea that you have got hold of a Spyder 5. A calibrated monitor is always better that an uncalibrated one. Otherwise its like trying to drive without a steering wheel.
2- Its always better to scan a colour or black and white image as rgb and later convert to black and white rgb. The reason is that rgb has important colour information that can affect the processing
3. You mention that scanning b&w negatives produce a "flat" result. Probably this can be corrected with levels or a contrast adjustment. Negatives have a better tonal range than prints.
Kind regards
Chris
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Post by Paul Whiting on Mar 21, 2021 19:11:14 GMT
Chris, I haven't done much with the Spyder... soon I'll be talking with the guy who gave it to me and hope to get some beginning help from him. Looking forward to it! As for starting with an RGB... you touched on something I've wondered about... how can I scan a b/w negative in RGB? There's no color information in a b/w film, right?!! Maybe you can help me understand that. As for flat prints... lately I've been concentrating on interpreting the histogram for the b/w negative. This gives me better control of the b/w negative and my prints have improved substantially. We should probably start a new thread. Finally, are you the same Chris that sent me a personal message here? Thanks for your welcome! Cheers, Paul PS: This is a great forum, have had lots of help here. Here's another site that I've found helpful: groups.io/g/QuadToneRIPKnowledgeable members of that Yahoo group you mention now populate this new group - and this group we're on right now of course. |
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Chris
Established Forum Member
Posts: 490
Open to constructive criticism of photos: Yes
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Post by Chris on Mar 21, 2021 20:58:31 GMT
Paul, I am happy to see you in the PS Elements and more group. I remember you well from the Yahoo Epson Printers group. Scanning B&W negs in RGB can have some advantages; there could be situations where one of the RGB channels scans with better quality than the others. However, due to the greater file size, some feel it's not justified. You can read about the pros and cons here: www.photo.net/discuss/threads/scanning-b-w-negative-why-scan-in-rgb.201733/#:~:text=If%20you%20scan%20a%20b%26w,to%20finesse%20the%20final%20output. I am sure you will find the Spyder an invaluable tool! Happy B&W printing! Kind regards Chris |
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Post by Sepiana on Mar 21, 2021 23:54:20 GMT
To anyone following this thread, . . .The discussion on Grant's Tools (Curves action) has been moved to a thread of its own. Curves in PSE 13 -- Effects Panel. In this way, the focus of this thread will stay on the OP inquiry (Levels/Options/Auto).
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