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Post by BuckSkin on Sept 27, 2020 5:12:39 GMT
I found this; it is written about CombineZP's predecessor, Combine ZM, but the principle is the same. From the first paragraph, it would seem that we have been applying the wrong terminology; the way I read it, for astro-photography, one should "image stack" instead of "focus stack"; but, I really can't see where the two techniques differ, unless it is the reduced noise factor. palaeo-electronica.org/2009_2/170/field.htmAll of the actual CombineZP site links are leading me to a dead end. |
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Post by Inspeqtor on Sept 27, 2020 5:48:33 GMT
So long as you are sure to make the adjustments ONLY for the lens that is on the camera, you should be fine. Take good notes as to where things are before and also just how much in what direction you adjusted and you should be able to put everything back like it was should things not work out. The reason that old boy is using a framing square is on account of it being metal, the markings are actually etched in the metal, thus allowing a more positive point of focus; a good steel straight-edge ruler would work just as well so long as the graduations are etched and not just printed. They make neat little pricey pasteboard focus calibrating targets, but I actually think a steel ruler with etched markings would be superior; those flimsy pasteboard targets are going to have a bit of sag, whereas a steel rule is not. You may even find things to be dead-on and no adjustment necessary. I have been in the precision machining business since 1968 when I grajeated from hihe skool, I have some Starrett etched scales, my longest being 24 inches. Will that be long enough?    |
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Post by Inspeqtor on Sept 27, 2020 5:52:16 GMT
I will not be adding any telescopes to my equipment, too costly, to cumbersome, too heavy. I wish I could kinda but it is not going to be in my future. I wish you good luck in your future with T-scopes! |
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Post by Inspeqtor on Sept 27, 2020 5:53:27 GMT
Did you allow CombineZP to download ALL files? I did and got combinezp.msi and siinst.exe I just looked in my folders and all I got was an executable application file named "combinezp" ; I must not have gotten any zip-files or anything else as I always keep everything together and there is nothing else in that folder. I will have to do a bit of investigating and see if I can figure out what you got. Thank you |
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Post by Inspeqtor on Sept 27, 2020 5:54:25 GMT
I found this; it is written about CombineZP's predecessor, Combine ZM, but the principle is the same. From the first paragraph, it would seem that we have been applying the wrong terminology; the way I read it, for astro-photography, one should "image stack" instead of "focus stack"; but, I really can't see where the two techniques differ, unless it is the reduced noise factor. palaeo-electronica.org/2009_2/170/field.htmAll of the actual CombineZP site links are leading me to a dead end. Thank you for trying..... |
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Post by BuckSkin on Sept 27, 2020 6:47:38 GMT
I have some Starrett etched scales, my longest being 24 inches. It don't get any better than Starrett. To hold it up, I would use a couple of those spring-loaded plastic clamps and square blocks of wood. The idea is to set the ruler somewhat at an angle to the line of fire, such that the camera can see the markings both in front and behind the target, say the 12-inch mark in your case. Several years ago, I had an old cousin to die that didn't have anybody, lived dirt poor, and rough. I went to feed his dog and he had this outside work-bench near the back door of his shack, just piled up with tools. I wanted a few momentoes to remember him by and scratched around through the rust and spiders and came out with a genuine Starrett machinists square; I use it almost every day and wouldn't sell it for a thousand dollars. Being a machinist, you won't have any problem figuring out fine-tuning the focus. |
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Chris
Established Forum Member
Posts: 435
Open to constructive criticism of photos: Yes
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Post by Chris on Sept 27, 2020 11:01:13 GMT
Inspeqtor, I think the high quality Sigma lens you have is ideal for moon photography. Micro focus adjustment will only fine tune the auto focus if necessary. Just a thought. You might wish to try photographing the moon without the teleconverter and just crop. Then compare the results with and without the teleconverter and see which image looks better. With my cheaper 500mm lens I find I get better results without using a teleconverter and just cropping. A 2x teleconverter will reduce image quality in 3 ways. It will decrease the aperture by 2 stops resulting in diffraction limiting effects. It will also reduce the light by 2 stops requiring a slower shutter speed or higher iso which can affect camera shake and image quality. It will also amplify lens defects by changing the geometry of the optics. The only way to check would be to do some testing. If you wish to try stacking images you can use the elements plus plug in for PS Elements which I understand you already have. Peterj has kindly provided a tutorial here: photoshopelementsandmore.com/thread/6031/median-stacking-reduce-noise A stacking project I have always thought about, is to take daily pictures of the moon's cycle for a month and combine them to make a picture of the full moon. The reason is that the fine details of the moon's relief only shows up in a narrow arc where the light is glancing over the surface. By combining daily pictures (or every few days) during the lunar cycle it should be possible to see the detailed relief of the whole moon. Kind regards Chris PS we can be thankful that the moon is there (Genesis 1:1). It is not only beautiful, but stabilises the earth's orbit and is essential to life. www.nature.com/articles/361615a0 |
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Post by Inspeqtor on Sept 27, 2020 13:35:14 GMT
I have some Starrett etched scales, my longest being 24 inches. It don't get any better than Starrett. To hold it up, I would use a couple of those spring-loaded plastic clamps and square blocks of wood. The idea is to set the ruler somewhat at an angle to the line of fire, such that the camera can see the markings both in front and behind the target, say the 12-inch mark in your case. Several years ago, I had an old cousin to die that didn't have anybody, lived dirt poor, and rough. I went to feed his dog and he had this outside work-bench near the back door of his shack, just piled up with tools. I wanted a few momentoes to remember him by and scratched around through the rust and spiders and came out with a genuine Starrett machinists square; I use it almost every day and wouldn't sell it for a thousand dollars. Being a machinist, you won't have any problem figuring out fine-tuning the focus. I googled Spring loaded plastic clamps:  Is your square a solid square or a combination square? I then googled Starrett solid squares, I own a 6 inch with a fitted wooden case, I found a 6 inch square on the internet w/o the case for $350 and a 4 inch w/o case for $100. I did not find any online with the fitted wooden case. |
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Post by BuckSkin on Sept 27, 2020 20:00:00 GMT
Is your square a solid square or a combination square? I think it is called a combination square. It has a movable 12-inch rule and 90* and 45* shoulders. Laying out in the weather for untelling how many years, it is amazing that the blade had no rust at all and the whole thing was in remarkable shape; and, it is dead-on accurate. I also found a big adjustable wrench (Crescent type) on that bench, Diamond Shoe and Tool Company, made by the people famous for making horse-shoes; like the square, hardly a day passes that I don't use it. Yes, those are the type clamps I was meaning; Harbor Freight did have a set with many pieces, starting with little-bitty ones and several sizes up to some that take both hands to squeeze them open. This is not the set I was thinking of, but close: www.harborfreight.com/spring-clamp-set-14-pc-56497.html?_br_psugg_q=spring+clamp |
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