gfmucci
Junior Forum Member
Learning PSE2021, coming from PSE9. Just received new Nikon P950.
Posts: 89 
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Post by gfmucci on Dec 23, 2020 23:57:47 GMT
I currently have everything on a 2 TB HD, using around 300GB.
I am planning to install a 1TB SSD and move my operating system (OS) and all apps to that new drive.
As I'm currently proposing, all existing files will remain on the original HD.
Question: With PSE on the SSD along with the OS, and photos remaining on the original HD, does PSE bring the image files I am working on in the Editor to the SSD that the program resides on or does it read and write to the HD where the image file is located?
When I download new photos, should they be downloaded to the SSD or to the original HD?
Should the original HD be used only for file storage or for cloned backup?
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Post by BuckSkin on Dec 24, 2020 0:45:03 GMT
I currently have everything on a 2 TB HD, using around 300GB. I am planning to install a 1TB SSD and move my operating system (OS) and all apps to that new drive. As I'm currently proposing, all existing files will remain on the original HD. Question: With PSE on the SSD along with the OS, and photos remaining on the original HD, does PSE bring the image files I am working on in the Editor to the SSD that the program resides on or does it read and write to the HD where the image file is located? When I download new photos, should they be downloaded to the SSD or to the original HD? Should the original HD be used only for file storage or for cloned backup? If by "cloned backup" you mean the OS, then yes, definitely make a clone of the OS; the huge advantage of this over an "image (which you should also have)" is that should the main OS fail or get corrupted, you can boot to the clone and go on with your business. If it is a desktop, it is as simple as choosing the clone on startup; if a laptop, you will have to swap disks to keep on with things. The files being edited will remain wherever they originally are stored, with any renamed edits landing wherever you send them. New photos should be downloaded/transferred/copied to the HDD or wherever you want them. A big source of confusion about many photo organizing programs is that "catalogs" are a physical thing; all a catalog is is a database = sort of a big list of what and where everything is; no actual image files reside in "catalogs", just information that points the program to their actual location. In my own opinion, catalogs are just something to keep one occupied maintaining them constantly. I quit catalogs a long time ago, I have tens of thousands of images from countless "events/occasions" and I can find a single image within minutes. |
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Post by Andy on Dec 24, 2020 2:14:22 GMT
- When you open a file for editing in PSE the file is loaded into your memory (RAM). PSE may also use a scratch file (which I would point to the SSD for performance). The image file can stay on the HD.
- I see no reason not to download the files to your HD.
- If space allows, you could clone your SSD to the HD as a backup. You also need a backup of the images on the HD.
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gfmucci
Junior Forum Member
Learning PSE2021, coming from PSE9. Just received new Nikon P950.
Posts: 89
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Post by gfmucci on Dec 24, 2020 2:31:52 GMT
- If space allows, you could clone your SSD to the HD as a backup. You also need a backup of the images on the HD. Space will probably allow. And maybe I should get a second HD (1 TB) to backup my images onto. Do you prefer an internal or external HD for that backup? |
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Post by Andy on Dec 24, 2020 3:28:20 GMT
And maybe I should get a second HD (1 TB) to backup my images onto. Do you prefer an internal or external HD for that backup? If your images are on a 2Tb drive, I would get at least that. That will allow you to keep multiple versions of your backups. I would go with external. That way you can disconnect it from your system when not in use. If your computer gets any kind of malware, you don't want your backup drive to get impacted. Also keep in mind the potential for a local catastrophe - fire, flood, etc. For this reason, I recommend a cloud backup or another external drive that you keep offsite (office, friend/relative's house). |
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Post by michelb on Dec 24, 2020 13:54:07 GMT
To gfmucci: You have also posted on the Adobe user to user forum; here is the link for users interested in the same question.
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gfmucci
Junior Forum Member
Learning PSE2021, coming from PSE9. Just received new Nikon P950.
Posts: 89
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Post by gfmucci on Dec 30, 2020 2:50:10 GMT
And maybe I should get a second HD (1 TB) to backup my images onto. Do you prefer an internal or external HD for that backup? If your images are on a 2Tb drive, I would get at least that. That will allow you to keep multiple versions of your backups. I would go with external. That way you can disconnect it from your system when not in use. If your computer gets any kind of malware, you don't want your backup drive to get impacted. Also keep in mind the potential for a local catastrophe - fire, flood, etc. For this reason, I recommend a cloud backup or another external drive that you keep offsite (office, friend/relative's house). Since I am only using about 300GB of my 2TB HD for everything, including system and all apps, and since only < 50 GB are photo files, I just purchased and installed a 1 TB SSD. I also just installed 16 extra GB of RAM, total now 28. The new SSD will become the new C and boot drive, and contain all apps including PSE and its Catalog. All files will be maintained on the HD and probably a mirror of the SD. Backup image files will be on an external 250GB HD. That's the plan. Just waiting for a SATA cable for the SSD. Funny thing, I was going to get a paid geek guy to do this, but while waiting for them to respond to my calls, I spent the time researching, buying and installing. I should have all cloned and running by the end of the week. Saved $100 in geek fees, as long as I don't run into last minute snags. I will be using the Western Digital-recommended AOMEI "Backupper", free version. It works to clone the OS as long as both sending and receiving disk styles (formatting) are the same. Any words of caution? |
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Post by BuckSkin on Dec 30, 2020 5:28:53 GMT
If your O/S is already on the HDD, then there is no need to clone it back to the HDD; just clone it from HDD to SSD and then make the O/S on SSD your primary boot. Keep in mind that this backup O/S is "stagnant" (for want of a better word) in that it will remain exactly as it was at the moment of cloning; it will not include any future programs, updates, and etc. that occur afterwards; UNLESS, you occasionally boot to it and bring it up to date. There are actually advantages to leaving it stagnant; as in, if everything was working fine, quick and snappy, at the time that it became the emergency backup, it will be immune from any maladies that may occur after the fact. For frequent mirrored O/S backups, I highly recommend the free program Macrium Reflect. www.tenforums.com/tutorials/61026-backup-restore-macrium-reflect.html#Part4For frequent backing up of all other files, I highly recommend the free program Synchredible. www.ascompsoftware.com/en/products/show/product/synchredible/tab/description |
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Post by Andy on Dec 31, 2020 18:13:40 GMT
Funny thing, I was going to get a paid geek guy to do this, but while waiting for them to respond to my calls, I spent the time researching, buying and installing. I should have all cloned and running by the end of the week. Saved $100 in geek fees, as long as I don't run into last minute snags That is great! Computer work can be intimidating at first, but like anything it can be learned with some practice (and a willingness to accept that you will make mistakes along the way). Congrats for trying it out on your own! |
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Post by BuckSkin on Dec 31, 2020 20:24:51 GMT
Funny thing, I was going to get a paid geek guy to do this, but while waiting for them to respond to my calls, I spent the time researching, buying and installing. I should have all cloned and running by the end of the week. Saved $100 in geek fees, as long as I don't run into last minute snags That is great! Computer work can be intimidating at first, but like anything it can be learned with some practice (and a willingness to accept that you will make mistakes along the way). Congrats for trying it out on your own! The thing that made learning and doing my own "geek work" much less intimidating was the fact that, if I caused the whole works to have a melt-down, the entire cost would have been about half what any of the not-really-so-knowledgeable so-called computer tech guys around here charge. The first several computer problems we encountered, we took the afflicted machine to one or another of the local area computer-fixer-guys, only to pay them about half what another machine would cost and end up buying another machine anyway. I honestly believe that I am now far more capable than any of them ever were and I learned it all completely out of necessity by searching out and following instructions available free on the internet. Now, instead of buying a new machine, I just fix and improve my old machine. |
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gfmucci
Junior Forum Member
Learning PSE2021, coming from PSE9. Just received new Nikon P950.
Posts: 89
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Post by gfmucci on Jan 2, 2021 20:51:32 GMT
That is great! Computer work can be intimidating at first, but like anything it can be learned with some practice (and a willingness to accept that you will make mistakes along the way). Congrats for trying it out on your own! The thing that made learning and doing my own "geek work" much less intimidating was the fact that, if I caused the whole works to have a melt-down, the entire cost would have been about half what any of the not-really-so-knowledgeable so-called computer tech guys around here charge. The first several computer problems we encountered, we took the afflicted machine to one or another of the local area computer-fixer-guys, only to pay them about half what another machine would cost and end up buying another machine anyway. I honestly believe that I am now far more capable than any of them ever were and I learned it all completely out of necessity by searching out and following instructions available free on the internet. Now, instead of buying a new machine, I just fix and improve my old machine. Amen to that!
Several lessons were learned:
1) The "free" cloning/boot drive apps are more often than not sales tools to get you to buy the $$ version to do the job you need to get done. I'm sure there are exceptions. In my case, I started with the free versions of AOMEI and Macrium. I was totally lost on the Macrium interface. So scratch that, although many recommend it. The AOMEI free was more "new user" friendly. It accomplished the clone, but I wasn't convinced it moved all of the system over because the cloned drive did not reflect the system on MS Config:Boot (options).
2) AOMEI free did not address the boot drive change. So I did end up spending $40 for their first level paid version, still cheaper than a tech-for-hire. After considerable trial and error, a two-step process worked for me. I first cloned my entire C drive to the new SSD G drive, and then used the "OS migration" option to migrate the OS to the SSD. The original HD C drive was changed to D. The new SSD drive, formerly G, was changed to C.
3) I won't tell you about my exciting 2-hour Blue Screen adventure. 
So, all Catalog files remain where they were from the Organizer's perspective, on C, (but a different drive, really), and all existing photos remain attached to the catalog and file. Actually, the Catalog is probably on BOTH drives.
Recapping:
* My C drive is the SSD with 1 TB; it is the boot drive with the system, all apps, the Catalog and pictures. 600 GB free/unallocated, but also contains a 16 GB "Recovery Image."
* My D drive is the HD with 2 TB; no system, all apps, the Catalog and pictures. 1,500GB free/unallocated.
* Currently, the Organizer "Folders for saved files" is set to D:\Users:Gerald:Pictures
My remaining decisions involve:
1) Do I want all old photos to remain on BOTH drives? I'd like to keep the old and new photos all together on one drive/folder.
2) If the Catalogs are on BOTH drives (which I believe they are) which one is accessed and kept updated by the Organizer? What should I do with the stagnant Catalog on the other drive?
3) If I deleted the old photos from the C drive, will that mess up the Catalog? Original photos still exist on the D drive (formerly C). I'd prefer all photos to be on the D drive with the most room. I have an external 250 GB drive for the backups. Here is my current Disk Management window...  |
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Post by Andy on Jan 3, 2021 3:05:53 GMT
Start with Item #2. You need to make sure you know which Catalog PSE is using. I'm not the PSE expert here, but I'm sure one of our other members can chime in with how to find that out.
Then make sure you know where the catalog is looking for the pictures (you should be able to easily see that in the Organizer Folder view)
Always...Always...Always - make any moves and changes to files/folders within the Organizer. If you do it under Windows Explorer, the Organizer will get confused and you will have to fix it later. So if you want to move files from one drive to another, do it via the Organizer.
I would keep all you photos on one drive (and you can move and organize them via the Organizer)
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Post by BuckSkin on Jan 3, 2021 3:13:39 GMT
Okay; now, you need to go a bit further before you are done = more exciting things to learn.
I am not certain about this, but I want to think that your default boot O/S should show first as Disk 0.
On your current Disk 0, you have nearly a terrabyte of space that is "unallocated" ; you need to expand the "(D:)" partition to include it --- scratch that = do this instead --- you need to make that unallocated space into a new partition with a new Drive Letter.
Once you get that new partition created and established, you need to move all non-system data into that new partition --- photos, documents, music, videos, etc.
When you get all non-system data moved safely into the new partition and deleted from the D: partition --- make sure everything is safely backed up before any of this --- now, shrink the D: partition to about 15 or 20GB larger than the remaining contents while expanding the new partition into all this new space.
When you get that accomplished and working, then do likewise with the C: partition, shrinking it to about 10GB larger than the current contents = this will create unallocated space on Disk 1 = make that new unallocated space into another new partition = move everything from C: that is not the O/S into this new partition = delete everything from C: that is not the system and then shrink C: while expanding the new partition; in this case, leave about 25GB extra room for C: to have a bit of growing room.
You will need to relocate your User Libraries from C: to the new partition Drive Letter.
After you get all this done, you will have your systems isolated from everything else and life from that point onward will be much better once you get it all figured out.
RESEARCH all of this and BACKUP EVERYTHING before beginning as with some of these operations there is no turning back if you mess up.
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gfmucci
Junior Forum Member
Learning PSE2021, coming from PSE9. Just received new Nikon P950.
Posts: 89
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Post by gfmucci on Jan 3, 2021 3:25:38 GMT
"On your current Disk 0, you have nearly a terrabyte of space that is "unallocated" ; you need to expand the "(D:)" partition to include it --- scratch that = do this instead --- you need to make that unallocated space into a new partition with a new Drive Letter.
Once you get that new partition created and established, you need to move all non-system data into that new partition --- photos, documents, music, videos, etc.
When you get all non-system data moved safely into the new partition and deleted from the D: partition --- make sure everything is safely backed up before any of this --- now, shrink the D: partition to about 15 or 20GB larger than the remaining contents while expanding the new partition into all this new space.
When you get that accomplished and working, then do likewise with the C: partition, shrinking it to about 10GB larger than the current contents = this will create unallocated space on Disk 1 = make that new unallocated space into another new partition = move everything from C: that is not the O/S into this new partition = delete everything from C: that is not the system and then shrink C: while expanding the new partition; in this case, leave about 25GB extra room for C: to have a bit of growing room.
You will need to relocate your User Libraries from C: to the new partition Drive Letter."
And if I don't do all that? I need to know benefits and consequences - risks and rewards - of doing vs not doing all that before doing it. Is the juice really worth the squeeze? |
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gfmucci
Junior Forum Member
Learning PSE2021, coming from PSE9. Just received new Nikon P950.
Posts: 89
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Post by gfmucci on Jan 3, 2021 3:45:21 GMT
Start with Item #2. You need to make sure you know which Catalog PSE is using. I'm not the PSE expert here, but I'm sure one of our other members can chime in with how to find that out. Then make sure you know where the catalog is looking for the pictures (you should be able to easily see that in the Organizer Folder view) Always...Always...Always - make any moves and changes to files/folders within the Organizer. If you do it under Windows Explorer, the Organizer will get confused and you will have to fix it later. So if you want to move files from one drive to another, do it via the Organizer. I would keep all you photos on one drive (and you can move and organize them via the Organizer) All ![]() images in the Organizer say they are imported from Volume D. Is that referring to the Catalog location or the image files location?
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