dicklaxt
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Post by dicklaxt on Jun 22, 2015 16:01:22 GMT
Taken with a Canon SX50 Bridge Camera with a Raynox 250 filter attached,,,,Edited with PSE11 Guided The ISO was on Auto and selected 1600, that more than likely caused the grainyness I'll try it on Manual ISO next time and see what it does. Work Flow as follows: Sharpen, Despeckle, Reduce noise, Brightness +, Contrast +, Levels-Input,,,pulled black in adjusted center, Levels-Output,,,pulled black in, Lighten & Darken,,,adjust all 3 options darker, Spot Healing Brush,,,random, Smuudge and Blur background. This flower #1 is 1/2 inch across the long side. #2 is 5/8 inch Before After#1 After#2, A little less Saturation dick
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Post by Sydney on Jun 22, 2015 21:57:16 GMT
Wow, you have really transformed it beautifully - terrific job!
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Post by BuckSkin on Jun 23, 2015 1:29:33 GMT
I like the more saturated one best.
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craftysnapper
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Post by craftysnapper on Jun 23, 2015 7:39:16 GMT
Dick I know you have worked hard on this but I prefer the original for colour and think it is a good image as is having seen this flower before. Also increasing saturation has made the background more prominent. If you must increase the saturation then use a Hue & Sat Adjustment layer and change the master channel to blue this will then not effect the background. You can then also do the same again with the yellow channel for the stamens but if pushed to far it will start to effect the background but as you have used a adjustment layer you can use your paintbrush and black to paint the background back to normal. Just one persons opinion and should be taken as such.
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dicklaxt
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Posts: 397
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Post by dicklaxt on Jun 23, 2015 11:26:47 GMT
Paul you know I was really kinda thinking that way a bit and thanks for the Tip. I didn't/don't know much about this editing and the correct approach to a lot of things. I really appreciate the input. I know of course a lot is how it appears/appeals to each individual.
BTW it's deceiving what this little flower looks like as it is only active in low light conditions,when the sun gets higher/brighter this blossom hides within itself'
dick
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qBall
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Post by qBall on Jun 23, 2015 11:48:19 GMT
Normally you would shoot with the lowest possible ISO (sensitivity to light) you can get away with unless you need to crank it up to get high shutter speeds to freeze motion or you are shooting in low light. The higher the ISO the more noise you are likely to get in your photos.
A rough rule of thumb:
Sunny outdoors: ISO 100 - 200
Overcast outdoors: ISO 400
Indoors: ISO 400+
Also, I always sharpen last. Sharpening tools essentially just add contrast to adjacent pixels thus creating an "illusion" of sharper focus. If you sharpen first, any edits you make could result in reducing the affect of the previous sharpening.
Finally, to help get sharper photos in the first place you could use a tripod to reduce camera shake/vibration.
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craftysnapper
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Post by craftysnapper on Jun 23, 2015 12:02:44 GMT
Normally you would shoot with the lowest possible ISO (sensitivity to light) you can get away with unless you need to crank it up to get high shutter speeds to freeze motion or you are shooting in low light. The higher the ISO the more noise you are likely to get in your photos. A rough rule of thumb: Sunny outdoors: ISO 100 - 200 Overcast outdoors: ISO 400 Indoors: ISO 400+ Also, I always sharpen last. Sharpening tools essentially just add contrast to adjacent pixels thus creating an "illusion" of sharper focus. If you sharpen first, any edits you make could result in reducing the affect of the previous sharpening. Finally, to help get sharper photos in the first place you could use a tripod to reduce camera shake/vibration. Looking at the exif it was shot at 322mm so the shutter speed to prevent camera shake would need to be 1/322 sec (and us older guys hands are not so steady at least mine are not ) and the camera chose 1/320 and the corresponding ISO speed. Unless using a tripod I fail to see what is wrong.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2015 11:43:32 GMT
Hi dicklaxt, To reduce the graininess you mention you could try the following. 1. Put your camera in Manual mode. 2. Set ISO 800 (which is 1 fstop lower than your setting of 1600), keep the same aperature and set the shutter speed to 1/160sec. These settings will maintain the same exposure as you original settings but with a lower ISO. You should see reduced graininess (noise) now. Even zoomed in, you should be able to eliminate camera movement/shake at 1/160sec. To help you take a sharp photo also try using the timer (while hand holding the camera). Many camera's have a 2 sec timer setting. Using a timer helps eliminate camera movement from pressing the shutter release. As well, if your lens has Image Stabilisation (IS Canon, VR (I think) Nikon), turn it on. Another feature, if your camera has it, you can use to help eliminate camera movement/shake is Mirror Lockup (Canon) not sure what it's called on other cameras. The "rule" Min shutter speed = 1/focal length is just a rough guide and not a rule cast in stone. A lot depends on how steady an individual can hold a camera. If all else fails, use a tripod where you can set your ISO to its lowest setting provided you still have sufficient shutter speed to stop any slight movement of subject and background due to wind. Anyway, if you like, have a play with the above and see how you go
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dicklaxt
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Post by dicklaxt on Jun 24, 2015 17:49:02 GMT
I don't repond much but I do takeheed of all the post and will try a lot of the suggestions if the CRS doesn;t kick in.
dick
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Squirrel2014
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Where's that cup of tea ... ???
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Post by Squirrel2014 on Jun 24, 2015 18:06:49 GMT
I don't repond much but I do takeheed of all the post and will try a lot of the suggestions if the CRS doesn;t kick in. dick Apologies, Dick, but what is CRS please? I've never heard that one before Many thanks Julie
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dicklaxt
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Posts: 397
Open to constructive criticism of photos: Yes
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Post by dicklaxt on Jun 24, 2015 19:32:51 GMT
I shouldn't do this but it's "Can't Remember S***"
dick
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Squirrel2014
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Where's that cup of tea ... ???
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Post by Squirrel2014 on Jun 24, 2015 21:20:01 GMT
Thanks Dick, but, as my memory is so so bad, what was the question :0 Ummm....... Julie
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2015 6:22:57 GMT
I don't repond much but I do takeheed of all the post and will try a lot of the suggestions if the CRS doesn;t kick in. dick Hi dick, no problem I did a quick google to find out a bit more about your camera. This is the review I read (there are many others on the Internet). www.photographyblog.com/reviews/canon_powershot_sx50_hs_review/image_quality/In it, it says " Noise is well-controlled until ISO 1600, which exhibits some artifacts, blurring of detail and slight colour desaturation." which you obviously saw in your original photo. So it looks like you'll have to use ISO settings below 1600 to avoid post processing to remove the noise. Elsewhere in the review it mentioned that your camera can shoot RAW format. If you are not already doing so, I would recommend you shoot in RAW, especially if you must use an ISO of 1600+ as the Noise Removal tool in ACR (built in to Elements) is a much better tool than the one in Elements itself. The general tip I posted earlier shows how you can use a lower ISO setting than the one chosen autmatically by the camera. Good luck
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dicklaxt
Established Forum Member
Posts: 397
Open to constructive criticism of photos: Yes
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Post by dicklaxt on Jun 25, 2015 7:46:01 GMT
Thanks thats very helpful
dick
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