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Post by pontiac1940 on Dec 4, 2021 22:24:45 GMT
See discussion here.
Well, the SpyderXPro arrived and I calibrated the ASUS VP28UQG 28" this afternoon. Seemed to go well. The calibrated monitor was warmer and "less bright" than the pre-calibration settings. Two interesting things: - At the start, it measured the room brightness and Spydy came back saying "That is a nice grow-op you have there. How is your crop? And BTW, you office is way too bright for photo editing." There are two, flat 4-ft LED ceiling panels in my office and it is very bright. I covered one panel almost over the desk using translucent, white coroplast board. Mr. Spyder was okay with the result and it is bright enough for general office work.
- When the Spyder read the screen brightness, it reported my screen was not bright enough (142 cd/m2) and it wanted 180 +/- 4 and so I cranked up the monitor brightness with the onboard monitor control panel. Yet, after calibration, the calibrated monitor was not as bright as pre-calibration.
Then the calibration went through its psychedelic process and completed. There were noticeable changes. Seems okay. Will run it again on one month. Thanks to Chris , srmoment , BuckSkin and others for your encouragement to buy a calibration unit. Clive
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Post by stevenp on Dec 5, 2021 12:33:36 GMT
That 180 cd/m2 is the default brightness the Spyder calibrates to. You don't have to accept it and so you can set whatever target brightness is appropriate for your needs.
The general rule of thumb monitor target brightness to match screen to print brightness is between 80 - 120 cd/m2. I calibrate my monitor to 80 cd/m2 which gives me a very close match between what I see on screen and print output. I do mostly my own home printing with my own custom printer profiles. Datacolor (Spyder manufacturer) also have SpyderPrint to build customised printer profiles if you're interested in doing your own printing.
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Post by pontiac1940 on Dec 5, 2021 14:53:48 GMT
Welcome here stevenp Thanks for your comments. The general rule of thumb monitor target brightness to match screen to print brightness is between 80 - 120 cd/m2. This range is what others had posted in a previous thread. What surprised me was that after adjusting the screen brightness (up quite a lot) and then completing the calibration, the final result was less bright and warmer than the pre-calibration output. So it must do some adjustments during calibration to offset the brightness adjustment. (? ?) As you know, before closing, Spyder offers a pre and post calibration comparison. The pre was cooler and seemingly brighter. I do not print much, but will do a couple of non-critical test prints sometime soon and check. Thanks for your input. Clive |
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Chris
Established Forum Member
Posts: 435
Open to constructive criticism of photos: Yes
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Post by Chris on Dec 5, 2021 16:58:08 GMT
This range is what others had posted in a previous thread. What surprised me was that after adjusting the screen brightness (up quite a lot) and then completing the calibration, the final result was less bright and warmer than the pre-calibration output. So it must do some adjustments during calibration to offset the brightness adjustment. (? ?) As you know, before closing, Spyder offers a pre and post calibration comparison. The pre was cooler and seemingly brighter. Clive, I have adjusted my Spyder X settings to turn off the ambient light measurement. Its optional if you wish to keep it on. I think the reasoning is that if you have more light falling on the screen then the software will adjust the profile to compensate so you can see all the available tones. It might also take into account the colour temperature of the light falling on the screen. Datacololor support are very helpful if you have any technical questions. The gamma adjustment has probably greatly improved the accuracy of your monitor. I personally have adjusted my monitor to 120 cd/m2 which works for me and gives an acceptable screen to print match. During photo editing, I sometimes check my histogram to check the brightness. After staring at a screen for a long time, tired eyes can easily change your perception. I think its impossible to get a "perfect" screen to print match due to the fundamental difference between printed images and those seen on a monitor. It also depends in which light you are viewing your prints. However, after a while your eye gets a feel on how bright your image should be to get a good print. Kind regards Chris |
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Post by pontiac1940 on Dec 5, 2021 18:23:09 GMT
I have adjusted my Spyder X settings to turn off the ambient light measurement. Thanks Chris. Good comments. I will play more. Clive |
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Post by billbee on Dec 5, 2021 23:31:10 GMT
Welcome here stevenp Thanks for your comments. ... I do not print much, but will do a couple of non-critical test prints sometime soon and check. Thanks for your input. Clive When I first got my Spyder I calibrated my monitor to the default 180 cd/m2. I found my prints were still a little too dark for my liking but much better than pre screen and printer calibration/profiling. I then recalibrated my screen to 120 cd/m2 and my test print was much better after brightening up my test print in PSE to get the lightness I wanted but still not quite right for my liking. I recalibrated my screen to 80 cd/m2 and my test print, after lightening a bit to get the lightness I want, was then very, very close to matching what I saw on screen. As Chris correctly mentioned, you cannot get a 100% exact match between screen and print. One significant reason is that the size of the colour gamuts between screen and printer are significantly different. That is why you choose a Rendering Intent (relative colormetric, perceptual etc) to tell the printer how to handle out of gamut colours. |
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Post by pontiac1940 on Dec 6, 2021 15:53:36 GMT
Thank you billbee I'll try that. BTW, welcome here. Clive |
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